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|Posted by John Ratcliffe on 6/18/2012 8:55:34 AM
|Just back from a wondeful week in Franken. Everyone always says 'call in advance' and that was our first mistake. Took the train up to Zapfendorf and walked up to Fischer in Freudeneck. Nice place, good beer. On the way back, wanted to stop in Hofen, but it was closed. On a Friday. I guess we should have checked, but it already has 2 closing days and it was a holiday weekend. A local couple drove up there as we were checking it out, so they obviously thought it would be open. We hear a lot about breweries closing for whatever reason, it seems a bit perverse to close 3 days in a week, when there are customers who want to buy your beer. Whatever, we walked down to Rattelsdorf, had a pint of Wagnerbrau from Kemmern(could have had Fassla pils for €1.60 in another place) at a bar where the landlord looked like a Rolling Stones roadie. Very friendly though. From there we went to Ebing and had a couple of enjoyable hours drinking the very pleasant dark beer in Schwanenbrau. Nice traditional tap room as well. Train back to Bamberg, you can guess the rest.
The following day we did a walk from pretzfeld to Buttenheim. Its described on the VGN site, but they want you to go to Hirschaid, which is longer and offers no beer between Gunzendorf and Hirschaid. We trekked over several hills to Weigelshofen(about 3 hours) and searched for the keller there(Schwarzer keller). This turned out to be way outside the town, almost at the top of a very big hill. What a great place, wonderful views and lovely beer(Pfister) from a proper keller, or cave, like they have at the Diller keller? After this walked down to the Kropfeld keller(Lowenbrau Buttenheim) in Drosendorf, this time easy to find, then up to Drugendorf.
Here comes mistake number 2. We knew there was a brewery in Drugendorf, but couldnt remember the name. Saw a 'Brauerei-gastatte' and sat down to have a beer. Turns out this was Kohlman, which closed about 10 years ago, though the krugs said Brauerei Kohlman. I was a bit suspicious as the beermats were form Ott in Oberleinleiter. The beer was a lovely dark beer, so it mwasnt too much of a disaster, but I suppose well have to go back to the Goldener Lowe as I now know its called one day. Then it was Gunzendorf, lovely village, very pleasant and friendly tap(Sauer), not the best beer of the day but decent nevertheless. Wanted to go up to the Keller, but didnt have the time or energy by then. Final sto[p was the lowenbrau keller in Buttenheim, one of our favourites, passing Meusel in dreuschendorf, which doesnt have a tap and which Ive never seen on sale. Frustrating. It looks like quite a big place. All in all, despite the mistakes a couple of excellent beer days, but then would you expect anything else?
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